Make delicious treats with the underrated kumquat


As I listened to Matt Etchemendy, chef of Ichabod’s on Irving Place, describe how he makes his “dirty-wild” freekah, I couldn’t help but think what fun it would be to cook in his kitchen — to have tubs of juniper-infused salts to rub into duck breasts, pints of mirepoix ready to sauté with pre-cooked grains, and compotes of all kinds to serve alongside seared meats and stacks of buttermilk pancakes.

While I know that some parts of restaurant work — the hours, the stress, the demands — don’t translate well into cooking at home, the concept of mise en place need not exist in restaurants alone. There is nothing stopping me from setting aside a day to make salad dressings and stocks, to cook grains and beans, to make a few loaves of bread with the goal of bringing ease to the days that follow.

16685550930_e43d2ce5ae_bAlexandra Stafford

One day I’ll…

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